Harry S. Pariser: Braulio Carrillo National Park

Planning to visit Costa Rica ? Here's some information for you which is extracted from the third edition of Explore Costa Rica by Harry S. Pariser. This text is copyright 2000, Harry S. Pariser. All rights reserved.Contact the author for reprint or other rights.

Braulio Carrillo National Park

(Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo)

The only national park near San José, Braulio Carrillo begins seven miles (12 km) from San Jose´ and en route to the small town of Guapiles. It encompasses elevations ranging from eastern lowlands (1,500 ft., 500 m) up to the summit of 9,534-ft. (2,906-m) Volcán Barva. Rainfall averages 110-115 in. (2,800-3,800 mm) annually, and it rains almost daily between March and October; the park's eastern slope is generally overcast when it isn't raining.

If you are going to the Atlantic Coast, it is virtually inevitable that you will pass through this park, the only national park divided by a highway. The surrounding greenery is often enveloped in mist which brings to mind Chinese landscape painting. It contains cloudforest.The park's most unusual feature must be the sickeningly orange-colored water of the Río Sucio (Dirty River). Its coloration is due to sulfuric deposits on Volcán Irazú. Watch for it below the bridge located towards the end of the park in the direction of Limón.

history: The story of this park is of people attending to the lessons of history, a historically significant occurrence in and of itself. After the idea of a highway surfaced in 1973, environmentalists, fearing a repeat of the indiscriminate deforestation which had followed the opening of other new roads in the past, argued for the establishment of this park. It was inaugurated in April 1978, and the Limón highway opened to traffic in 1987. Under the US AID-funded Foresta project, the park has received funds for more trails and viewpoints and a visitor's center.

flora and fauna: Comprising 108,969 acres (44,099 ha), 84% of the park's surface is primeval forest, 11% is used for ranching and farming, and 5% is secondary forest. There are over 500 species of birds; the magnificent quetzal and the black-faced solitaire reside on Volcán Barva as well as on other high peaks.

getting here: Take the hourly Guápiles-bound bus from C. 12, Av. 9. An impressive way to enter the park is by Volcán Barva through the road leading to Sacramento de San José de la Montaña. The bus to Paso Llano (Volcán Barva) leaves from Heredia at 6:30, 11, and 4 and returns at 7:30, 1, and 5 from Mon. to Sat. On Sun. it runs at 11 and 4. In addition to the ranger stations at either Zurqui or Quebrada Gonzales, it's possible to enter the park near La Virgen off the road to Puerto Viejo de la Sarapiquí if you are packing a four-wheel drive.

note: It's best to avoid parking near the miradores (lookout points) along the main highway. Visitors were robbed by men with guns at them in 1992, and break-ins along the roadside are numerous and commonplace. It's also better to hesitate before going into the park on your own: one member of a family from Missouri was robbed and beaten by two armed thieves after the group had entered the park in March 1995 to birdwatch. If you are going to visit, you should leave your vehicle by the ranger station or take a bus. Bring little in the way of money or material possessions with you. Let the ranger know where you are going.

hiking: Inquire at the ranger station (where you pay admission) concerning trails and current conditions. There are two trails accessible from the highway. One, before the tunnel, is sheer and arduous; the other, the Sendero Botello, 17 km (11 miles) after the tunnel and 2.5 km (1.5 miles) before the Quebrada Gonzales station at the park's far end, is less difficult. Both are muddy, and snakes may be a danger. You're most likely to spot birds along these trails. There's also a four-day hike from Barva to Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí with shelters available along the way. En route you descend from 2,900 m (9,514 ft.) to 34 m (112 ft.).

climbing Barva: From Heredia take the 6:30 AM San José de la Montaña Paso Llano bus (Mon. to Sat.) from behind Heredia's Mercado Central. (On Sun., you must first travel to San José de la Montaña and then take a 7:10 Paso Llano bus). Watch for signs at Paso Llano (Porrosati) leading to the entrance, four miles (6.4 km) to the L. Sacramento is four miles (seven km) farther, and from there it is approximately two miles (three km) to the top of Volcán Barva (9,534 ft., 2,906 m). Its main lake is 600 ft. (200 m) in diameter. The Danta, another lake, is nearby. Be sure to bring a compass, rubber boots, warm clothing and food--no matter how nice the weather is! Although they were planning only a day hike around the crater, three German hikers were lost in rain and fog for 11 days here. Plan to make it back in time for the 5 PM bus (4 PM on Sun.). If traveling by car, you should note that the road after Sacramento is not generally navigable in the rainy season. If you like, you may also purchase cheese and natilla from the dairy farms in the area. Food is available at the Restaurante Sacramento. Expect afternoon rains any time of the year and plan accorodingly.

the banana highway: As the RR to Limón ran only as far as Carrillo, 41 km from San José, capitalist entrepreneur extraordinaire Minor Keith built a highway through here in 1881 to connect the capital with the terminal. Fallen into disrepair since completion of the railway line, it now makes a wonderful day hike.