Planning to visit the Unites States Virgin Islands? This is a description of the nation's only underwater national monument; it is extracted from the third edition of The Adventure Guide to the Virgin Islands by Harry S. Pariser. This text is copyright 1998, Harry S. Pariser. All rights reserved.Contact the author for reprint or other rights.

Comprising 780 acres in total, Buck Island Reef is the only underwater National Monument in the U.S. Its center, 180-acre Buck Island, lies two miles off the N shore of St. Croix. An incredible 30,000 people visit this seductive nymphet of an island every year. Proclaimed a national monument in 1961, the island was inhabited from the 1750s. The story of its name is a convoluted tale which has been frequently misrepresented. The earliest evidence comes from a French map dating from 1667 which shows the island called Ile Vert ("Green Island"); the Dutch settlers called it Pocken-Eyland because of the presence of Pokholtz (Lignum vitae) trees which gave it its greenery. An island to the W, now known as Green Cay, was named Ile a Cabritz (Goat Island). In the Danish period during the early 1700s, the names for the caye and the island were transposed in a mapmaking error. Thus, Buck Island should really be known as Green Cay and vice versa! Today, visitors are permitted onshore only between 8-5 daily. Dramatically reforested since the goats' departure, the island today is as close to nature now as it's ever been. Even though the spectacular stuff is really underwater, it's worth a visit just for the island itself. More than 40 species of birds flutter around 62 species of trees. The island is a rookery for frigate birds and pelicans. A nature trail (takes one hour) runs along the top of the mile-long island; follow the trail to the top of the island for a spectacular view of St. Croix. The beaches here (on the SW and W coasts) are superior to any on St. Croix. Watch out for the machineel trees on the W coast and the touch-me-not which has yellow needles hidden under its green leaves. Underwater, a 750-ft., 45-min. underwater trail is marked by arrow markers; signs identify sea anenomes, feather duster worms, sea fans, and a variety of corals. The elkhorn coral here are some of the world's largest known specimens. There are over 300 species of fish including sergeant major, rock beauty, foureye butterflyfish, angelfish, grunts, blue tang, rock beauty, parrotfish, and yellowtail snapper.

downstairs: Originally a simple fringing reef, a magnificent barrier reef stretches 2,000 yards along the eastern half of the island. Its effect is one of sheer fantasy. Swim past the elkhorn coral that marks the entrance to the reef and follow the markers along the bottom to find your way along the 30-min. underwater trail. While underwater, check out the rainbow gathering of fish including the queen angelfish, the foureye butterflyfish, the smooth trunkfish, and the French and blue angelfishes. Others include the yellowtail, spadefish, red snapper, tilefish, trumpetfish, and several varieties of parrotfish. Fish here are so naive and trusting that they'll eat right out of your hand. While you're investigating the downstairs branch of this living natural history museum, note the primitive multicellular animals. Most primitive of all are the sponges, which come in all shapes and sizes. A dinosaurian prototype of the starfish, the flexible, multi-armed crinoid anchors itself to crevices with its central, white, root-like pedestal. One of many reef organisms capable of producing sounds underwater, the spotted drum (Equetus punctatus) produces a continuous discordant and eerie symphony of snaps, pops, grunts and scraping noises.

getting there: Access is limited to private and chartered boats. Concessioners are licensed by the NPS and must meet strict standards. Expect to pay at least $25 for the 5 1/2-mile sail. A variety of all shapes and sizes of boats (including catamarans, yachts, native sloops, trimarans and glass-bottomed boats) leave from Christiansted's King's Wharf. One of the best of these is Mile-Mark Charters (tel. 773-BOAT; 800-524-2012) which has both sail and motorboat trips.from $25-$40. Don't worry if you have never snorkeled before or even if you can't swim: They've handled people from Nebraska who've never even seen the sea before! If you're unsure of your ablilties just wear a flotation cushion and hold on to the life preserver towed by the guide. Another popular boat is Capt. Heinz's Teroro II (tel. 773-3161/4041), a 42-ft. trimaran. note: When planning your trip, it would be best to consider your priorities. For example, do you wish to sail or motor, do you want a glass bottomed boat or not, and how long do you wish to spend on the island? All tours stops at the underwater nature trail for around 45 min. The differences between the trips lie in other particulars. You should ask if the boat will dock at Buck Island or merely anchor offshore. If you want to hike the nature trail, allow for an hour ashore.

practicalities: If you plan on snorkeling, hiking, fishing or picnicking, pack appropriately. Although there is a well-equipped picnic area, no food is available on the island so bring your own. Beware of sunburn, cuts from coral, spiny sea urchins, jellyfish, fire coral. Never reach into a dark hole lest you be savaged by a moray eel. The white floats are placed there for resting. Maneuver your boat slowly through park waters. For further information contact Superintendent, Christiansted National Historic Site, Box 160, Christiansted, St. Croix, USVI 00820 (tel. (809) 773-1460).

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