Adventure Guide to Jamaica: Christiana

Planning to visit Jamaica? Would you like to travel to a less visited area? Here's some info about one of the island's relatively untouristed small towns. It's extracted from the third edition of Jamaica: A Visitor's Guide by Harry S. Pariser. Copyright 1995, Hunter Publishing. All rights reserved.

Christiana

by Harry S. Pariser

One of the nicer small towns to visit, Christiana offers an alternative to relatively busier Mandeville. Farmers surrounding this small marketing center produce potatoes, ginger, and livestock; market days are from Thurs. to Sat. Held each Dec. 24, the Grand Market Night here features an all-night sale of crafts as well as music, dancing, and Jonkanoo celebrations.

SIGHTS: Provided you have your own transport, this temperate town would be an ideal place to visit places as diverse as Maggotty, Milk River, Bob Marley's tomb, and Cockpit Country. However, there's enough to do just in the area that you could easily spend a week exploring and never have a long drive. Some of these things are listed below; you'll find others under "From Black River to Maggotty" and in the previous two sections. Right in town, the police station dates from 1896 and the Moravian church next to it is from 1891. A road from Kirby Hardware in town leads two mi. (3.2 km) to the Blue Hole River with its swimming hole and waterfall.

Gourie: Situated at 846-m (2,750-ft.) elevation about a mi. or so north of Christiana is Gourie Recreation Center (enter near Coleyville Banana Plant). With an average mean temperature of 68Á F, Gourie is an attractive place to stay for relief from the heat. It has two cabins; get your keys from the caretaker). In addition to numerous hiking trails, it contains the Gourie Cave, source of the Black River. From the cabins, it's around a half-mi. down a gully--passing trees such as blue mahoe and Santa Maria--to the as-yet-uncharted cave with its underground river which submerges for around ten mi. (six km) and emerges at Oxford to the W (where you may visit Oxford Cave through the Hotel Villa Bella). There're also trails here. Also in the area is the Martins Hill Orchid Sanctuary.

Christiana Bottom: This gorge is farmed by agriculturists of German ancestry. Some of their ancestors fought for King George III as mercenaries in the successful colonial uprising in the American colonies. In return, they were given land rights here. Others came as indentured laborers. To get to the gorge, head through the town to the National Commerical Bank to your R, make a R turn there, first L then you make a L. Go about two mi. down the road until you see a campsite; park there. You have to make your way through somebody's back garden. They'll show you the way, and you head down the gorge. It's about an 800 ft. drop.
Walderston: Named after Henrich Walder who built its church, Walderston is one of these towns that you've drive through before you realize that you are in. However, it hosts the Magic Toy Factory (tel. 997-6652). Getting here is an adventure in itself; you turn into a road from the center of town and then make a L up a rough road. and keep passing gorgeous foliage for about .5 mi. The factory is set in an old red house. Surrounded by a forested glade, it has gardens which offer splendid views. The attractive grounds are surrounded by orchids and other flowers. Inside, you'll find the workers (including one young boy) hard at work on the jigsaws and painting puzzles, earrings, pins, and wall plaques. Prices are reasonable and start from under $1. Stately Mt. Olivet church is near Walderston in the direction of Clandon.

churches: The nation's oldest church, the Bethany Moravian Church was founded in 1835 by Moravian missionaries on 80 acres of land donated by the Bromwells, a wealthy English family. The church is modeled after one in Hernhut, Germany, and its organ was installed in 1890. Wooden pegs and forged nails hold the cedar and red bullet wood structure together. (Moravia is now part of the Czech Republic). Its minister, an American named George Lopp, cultivated the first Irish potatoes her in 1898; their descendants still grow here today. The church offers majestic views of the Don Figueroa mountains and Mile Gully valley. Dating from 1866, the Mizpah Moravian Church is also set on a hill. Its name (as well as that of the surrounding community) was given to it by its first priest, Theodore Sondermann, who left for Europe leaving the church uncompleted but hoping to return. Mizpah means "The Lord watches over us," but Sondermann died in Europe and it was left to Swiss missionary and surveyor Heinrich Walder to complete the church. It is probably owing to his influence that the church resembles an alpine chalet. The weathervane has "1870," the date of completion, etched on it. The government donated the four-faced German clock in 5.

Glastonbury: The Glastonbury Plantation, a 1,000 acre coffee and banana plantation, has been run by the Gentles family for generations. At present, only 250 acres are under cultivation. the renovated great house offers splendid views of the Trelawny hills. The estate's hilly terrain dictates that only seemingly archaic methods of cultivation and harvesting (such as donkeys and hand gathering of coffee and bananas) may be used. It may be visited through the Hotel Villa Bella (US$25 pp for a three-hour tour)


Scene around Christiana (graphic coming soon Mon!)


PRACTICALITIES: Outside Mandeville in Christiana and surrounded by six acres, the Villa Bella (tel. 964-2243, fax 964-2765; Box 473, Christiana) is managed by the delightful Monica Zijdemans, a Jamaican returnee from the States. The hotel was first opened in 1941 by Mrs. Ida Steers, the daughter of a leading businessman. At that time it could compete in quality with any hotel in the island. These days, it is no Grand Lido, but--for that very reason--it is as briskly refreshing as the climate change. One of the nation's most charming small hotels, this half-century-old hotel is a blast from yesteryear. At night it glows from the road as you approach. Rooms are comfortable and charming specifically in their lack of sanitized Howard Johnson-style. You really feel that you are visiting an earlier era, when things were a bit more laid back, rooms were opened with skeleton keys, and wooden staircases creaked a bit. Anyone who has been deprived of the experience of pulling down a wooden handle attached to a metal chain in order to flush a water closet has been truly missing an experience their grandparents had daily! There's something, well, humanistic, about this place that you won't find in the larger resorts. If you want to be in a skyscraper with elevators with glaring red digital readouts, carpeted floors, and a casino and disco--then this is not the place to choose. If you value character, charm, and personable service over sterility, then it is one of the best places in the Caribbean to come to! Meals are innovative and well-prepared, and meal plans are available. You can choose from dishes ranging from tomato omelettes or tomato basil salad (made with tomatoes that taste like real tomatoes), poached fish cooked Chinese style, or a Jamaican plate for breakfast to seafood and other dishes for dinner. Many of the vegetables and spices are grown on the grounds. The restaurant is open from 7:30 AM to 9 PM, and you can dine either inside or on the balcony. Tours (see below) and car rentals can be arranged. Monica offers 18 rooms for around US$55 s or d. A 15% service charge is added to all bills along with the 12.5% GCT.

Another alternative in the area is the Glencoe Bed and Breakfast (tel. 964-2286; Spaulding PO, Clarendon). Run by Lucy Nash, the home dates from 1891 and is surrounded by a 7.5 acre farm. Rates are US$60 s or d and include a full breakfast.

food shopping: Shop at the market and at Super Plus on Main St.

tours: The Villa Bella offers tours to locations which include Gourie (US$30 pp for a three-hour tour), the Oxford Cave (US$30 pp for a three-hour tour), Christiana Bottom (a picnic-tour, US$20 pp, three-hours) as well as to Glastonbury and other locations.


This is just a taste of what you might do in Jamaica. For more information on the area surrounding Christiana as well as comprehensive coverage of the rest of Jamaica, you may purchase third edition of Jamaica: A Visitor's Guide ($15.95; IBSN 1-55650-703-8) which is available at your local bookstore. (Request them to order it from Hunter or from Ingram if it is not in stock).

Note: This guide will be updated in 1998. Please contact me regarding updates.



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This page last updated: Thu, Mar 5, 1998

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